Back to the Bayou by Kim Muller

I had looked forward to the 2003 "Back to the Bayou" annual paddle on Bayou Lafourche almost as soon as the 2002 trip had ended. Missing the first day’s paddle which began in Donaldsonville, I didn’t arrive until the evening entertainment began at Madewood plantation that evening.

A few local artists works were displayed, and a poet read some of her work. Rhea Gary, a Baton Rouge resident described a project that she and C.C. Lockwood were going to take part in for the upcoming year. “Marsh-mission” will be an educational and artistic journey into the vanished wetlands of Louisiana. They will be spending a year in the marshes of southeast LA photographing and painting the landscape. At the same time, they will be keeping in touch with 20 classrooms via the internet about their mission. Check out their website at www.marshmission.com. The key speaker for the evening was Mike Tidwell. He has written about the vanishing LA wetlands in his book Bayou Farewell.

All the participants of the paddle were given BTNEP www.btnep.org goodies - mug, hat, videos, t-shirt, book (guide) of Bayou Lafourche, key protector, lanyard, etc. Every morning we were loaded up with fruit, drinks, trail mix, etc. Your needs were well met on this trip. All included in the cost of the trip.

Facilities at Madewood Plantation were first class. Just ask the person who showered in the Brad Pitt room. We camped on the plantation grounds and were up early the next morning to start off the day. The paddle Saturday was from Madewood Plantation to Thibodaux for a total of approximately 15 miles. Several other Bayou Haystackers were along on this trip. Joining me were Pat Fontova, Don Keller, Robb Wiltse, Michele Ritter, Philip Arceneaux, Shirlen Stansbury, Marsanne Golsby, Hulin Robert, Leonard Naquin, Roberta Gaidry, Dale Blessing and Arthur Hebert.

Saturday’s lunch stop was at a local restaurant - Nubby Ducks. A few miles before we got to the restaurant they were taking orders for lunch from the top of a bridge over the bayou.

As I was paddling with Don Keller later in the day, he told me he was going under a passing cypress tree to "go to church". The next thing I know I hear him screaming my name. I head over to the tree to see a barred owl sitting on a branch only a few feet from Don's kayak. When the owl saw me, it flew off into another tree.

We ended the day tired and sore at Jean Lafitte National Historical Park in Thibodaux. The evening meal was a delicious gumbo and alligator sauce piquant. We watched the total lunar eclipse and listened to local blues singer Tab Benoit perform. After Tab’s performance, a group of local gypsy style dancers made an appearance and danced a birthday dance for Deborah Schultz - the trip coordinator for BTNEP. After the entertainment, C.C. Lockwood made a surprise appearance and showed us slides from his latest alligator book.

I had a great night’s sleep despite noise from a local festival on nearby streets, traffic noise from cars, motorcycles and overly loud sugar cane trucks passing through town. The thing that topped off the night for some people was the rooster that crowed all night - supposedly mixed up because of the full moon.

Up early the next day, we were off again towards our next destination - in Mathews. Sunday's paddle was about the same length as Saturday's paddle. Since most of my Haystacker friends had gone home, this was the day I met several other teachers and people who came from out of state to attend the paddle. I met people from CA, CO, TX on a trip that had only been advertised locally.

We stopped for lunch at St. Charles Borromeo Catholic Church. They had a special spaghetti dinner for us. The weird combination of food, spaghetti and meatballs, potato salad and corn tasted great. Oh, I can't forget the Vietnamese-made eggrolls! Before lunch we were told what was in store for the coming evening. We were to stay at the house of the leader of the Houma Indian nation. We were told what to expect, what to do, and what not to do.

Less than an hour after lunch we came on to our next rest stop - a local fruit and vegetable stand. There were lots of people cheering us on. In fact, during the whole trip, there were people lined up all along the bayou cheering us on - some with signs, some with satsumas. The owners of the stand had food for us - drinks, snacks, chili, homemade cookies - you name it. I had just stuffed myself at lunch but to be polite, I stuffed myself again.

When we arrived at our camping spot for the evening, everyone set up their tents, got their showers and socialized for a bit. The mosquitoes really started biting as the sun started going down. The previous two nights were pretty much void of mosquitoes.
Our menu for the evening was Indian fry bread which was made into Indian tacos - with chili, cheese, tomatoes and salsa. On the side was some kind of corn dish (I've already forgotten the name) that was mixed with different ingredients - one had crawfish, one had sausage, and the other was vegetarian. Everything was delicious - five star restaurant quality. Along with this was dessert and drinks. The whole place was set up with oil lights, tables with tablecloths, tiny white lights, and music. First rate without a doubt!

After the meal was over, the tribal ceremony began. They called us around a ring set up ahead of time with oil lamps on poles around the exterior. We were all encouraged to bring chairs and the lamps off our tables. Earlier in the day we were told that the Native American people have had broken promises made to them so many times that they had learned not to trust white people. We were told that we could not take pictures of the entrance march but could for some things afterwards. This was to be a sacred ceremony that not many people were usually allowed to see. This was to be an opening for BTNEP and the Houma Indian tribe to work together on coastal erosion.

The Native American dress (not costume) was beautiful. Most all of the dancers were young members of the tribe. The young men were in the middle of the circle sitting around a drum beating and singing. After the opening march, we were asked to participate in the friendship dance. Women did one step in beat to the drums, men did another and young women could opt out for a more modern step that seemed a little too involved for me - kind of like a line dance step. You were supposed to feel one with the drum beat and move with the beat.

Up early again on Monday. Breakfast was ready and waiting for us. My mouth still drools at the thought of the French toast they served. It was French toast made with real French bread, topped with hot syrup and whole pecan halves! It was the best French toast I'd ever eaten. They also had a few kinds of egg dishes - one with shrimp, one with Italian sausage and one with just egg and biscuits. Top that off with fruit, juice and coffee. Our hosts at this camp were the most gracious hosts along the whole trip.

Monday was a very short paddle of only about 6 or 7 miles. We all started off together in a line. Of course, that didn't last long. Soon we were all spread out. It didn’t take long to reach our final destination at a park in Lockport. The town had lunch waiting for us (red beans). They gave all of us a town pin to put in our hats. A Native American from AZ was there to give a water blessing for the ending of the trip. It was very powerful ending to the trip. A microphone was passed around for any who wanted to say something they learned on the trip.

The whole trip was fantastic. The hospitality of people along the bayou was more than I've ever experienced anywhere.